Sultanahmet

Last weekend I went on a tour of the ancient landmarks in the Sultanahmet district of European Istanbul. We visited the Topkapi Palace, the Ayasofya Museum, the Yerebatan Cistern, the Imperial Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), and the Spice Market. Each place was transformative, and when you touched the walls, it felt like the rich history was rubbing onto you.
We met at Söğütlüçeşme, on the Asian side, and then picked up the rest of the Rotary students in Europe. Our tour guide was bubbly, but also sassy enough to maintain a semblance of order in a group of twenty-four teenagers. She carried a yellow and pink plush, wire-stuffed flower high above her head so we could find her in the crowds. Once we collected the entire group, we drove to the gates of the Topkapi Palace, and entered the focal point of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19th centuries. 

The ceiling of the tower at the entrance of the palace.

Upper Terrace with fountain, İftar bower and Baghdad Kiosk

The Tower of Justice--built by Mehmed II, and renovated by Suleiman I

The Topkapi Palace is home to some of the worlds most amazing garments and jewel-adorned boxes. On a card next to a case containing a golden ceremonial goblet, it was stated that there were three hundred individual emeralds studding the outside of the cup. The Sultan's ran their empires well, and they reaped outrageous benefits, most of which are still available for public viewing. 

The Blue Mosque is famous for the blue tiles that adorn the walls of it's interior. Before entering, all women must cover their heads, arms, and knees. The mosque provides blue cotton fabric to the women entering, because many people are not dressed appropriately. It is also required that every person, regardless of gender, must remove their shoes prior to entering. Benches with faucets in front of them line the outside of the building so that the devout can wash their feet. Despite the foot washing, the mosque has a noticeable smell of dirty socks. 

Generally women are not allowed in mosques, especially during the times of prayer. However, the Blue Mosque has a section in the back that is separated by a perforated lattice wall, behind which the women can sit. The entire mosque is tiled with 20,000 hand-made ceramic tiles and more than 200 stained glass windows allow natural sunlight to stream in. Hundreds of verses of the Qur'an are carved and painted on the walls. Donated carpets cover the floor, and they are replaced regularly because they wear out quickly, due to the heavy traffic. 

Venice and me in the Blue Mosque

Blue Mosque ceiling and tiles

The Basilica Cistern is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. It was originally a basilica built between the 3rd and 4th centuries, but was destroyed during a fire in 476. It was reconstructed, and then renovated by Emperor Justinian after the Nika riots in 532. Over 7,000 slaves built the cistern as the water filtration system of the Great Palace of Constantinople and other places on the first hill. 

The entire cistern still exists today, though the water level is much lower than in functioning times. The underground chamber is entirely red-lit from under the surface of the water, giving the space an eerie garnet glow. Long fish swerve between the thick marble columns that stretch from the high, damp ceiling to the floor. Their shadows are twice their size, and they reflect off the water onto the marble pathways, creating the illusion of hundreds more fish than there actually are. 

The illuminated columns of the cistern.

Fish swimming in red light.

The Spice Market was a blur of scents, spices, Turkish delight, colors, pottery, loose tea, döner, cats, and enthusiastic vendors. We walked down and back through the center of the market, and we saw every kind of spice imaginable. It really was indescribable, so I'll post some photographs. 

Scarves

Spices and çay

Turkish delight

Çay (tea)

The day was a wonderful glimpse into the magnificent, historical city that is Istanbul. More to come about the Ayasofya. It really does deserve it's own post.