Christmas!

Since Turkey is a primarily Muslim nation, there is no Christmas vacation in December at normal public and private schools. Most of the exchange students here in Istanbul had school on Christmas, which upset everyone terribly. So we asked to skip school and attend a mass at a church on Istiklal Caddesi, Taksim. The preacher was from South Africa and the choir was composed of multiple East-Asian nationalities. Since I was there with a group of exchange students from the USA, Germany, France, Mexico, Canada, and Brazil, it was a thoroughly international service. After the service we went to Molly's Cafe, a cafe/boutique/bookshop run by Molly, a Canadian ex-patriot. Molly made us delicious pancakes with real maple syrup and fresh fruits.

Church on St. Anthony of Padua

Kody (Nebraska, USA) and me really feeling the Christmas spirit

Church of St. Anthony of Padua 

Church of St. Anthony of Padua 

Theo (Germany) and me outside the church

A street vendor blowing bubbles onto our group (Vendor, me, Kody, Katie, and Theo)

Bubbles 

Lasse (Germany), me, and Mario (Mexico)

Lasse, me, Mario, and Lauritz (Germany)

It was definitely an alternative Christmas, but not without it's charm. 

By Retro

My life in Istanbul has been çok meşgul (very busy).

Here are some of the highlights and moments of the past few months. 

Some weeks ago I visited By Retro, Istanbul's oldest and second largest second hand store. By Retro is located just off of Istiklal Caddesi on Suriye Passage. From the street it just appears to be a few simple racks of garish clothes, hanging limply from their mismatched hangers outside the shop's door. However, down the steep and liberally poster-adorned stairwell lies a treasure trove of costumes, sunglasses, shoes, coats, hats, furs, jewelry, and many other types of clothing. The entire store, except for the sad outdoor racks, is underground. The fact that there is no ventilation underground does not deter the employees from smoking cigarettes as they go about their work. Must, smoke, and dim lights fill the air, and illuminate the treacherous path between the stacks and racks and piles of clothing. Despite the smell, the store was wonderful to explore. Every kind of object and clothing could be found within the depths of By Retro, it just takes massive patience to sort through the mass. 

By Retro dress section 

My friend Katie in the male dress shirt area.

Katie with a tail

Me modeling the current fashions.

The hippest outfit I could find in 12 seconds.

By Retro

By Retro

By Retro

I ended up only buying two scarves, but it was definitely an adventure. 

Cumhuriyet Bayramı

The 29th of October marks the day that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk declared Turkey to be a Republic in 1923. The Grand National Assembly was established in 1920, thus making it a republic, but it was not officially recognized until 1923. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was selected as the first president of the Republic of Turkey when the Republic was declared. Every year following 1923, the people of Turkey celebrate the Cumhuriyet Bayramı (republic holiday). For several days leading up to the holiday, my school choir practiced songs about the republic, Atatürk, and the Turkish people. On Monday the 28th, we had a small, three-song concert for the other students at the school. 

On the 29th I went to the Belgrad Forest in Northwestern Istanbul with my mother, father, sister, and brother. Belgrad is a 5,500 hectare forest, with a 6 kilometer circular path for running and walking. We walked around the loop once, and then went to a family friend's house for brunch in Zekeriyaköy, Istanbul. We ate a traditional kahvaltı (breakfast) of bread, cheeses, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, honey, jams, and çay (tea). We sat on their balcony porch, while we ate, which has a beautiful green view. 

At 18:00, I wen to Bağdat Caddesi (Bağdat Street) with my host sister and her friends. Bağdat Caddesi is a 14km long street that runs from Bostancı to Kızıltoprak and is the major shopping district on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. The street is lined with famous shops, designer clothes stores, pubs, restaurants, department stores, and cafes. On Republic Day the street is packed with thousands of people, forming an overwhelming sea of red and white. Turkish flags hang from every surface--from balconies, on every shop window, outside restaurants, on lines tied across the street, and they wave in the hands of every Turk waiting to see the late-night parade. Music booms from a stage part-way down the street, and television screens show images of Atatürk, Turkey, and Turkish flags. Most of the crowd sings along to the music, thus making a deafening roar. 

Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Turkish flags hanging in the street before the crowds came. 

 Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Some of the Turkish flags have Ataturk's portrait on them.

 Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

The crowds beginning to form.

Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Eating Manti with my host sister, Ayşe Naz, before the parade.

 Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

The streets were lit up with fairy lights in Turkish colors. 

Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

The friends I was at the parade with. Some live in our apartment complex, and others live nearby.

 Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Ayşe Naz and her friend Hande met two popular Turkish Vine creators.

Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Flags hanging across the street.

 Republic Day--Bağdat Caddesi

Thousands of people swarming through the street.

Iyi Bayramlar

This past week was the bayram, which is a national holiday or festival. There are many throughout the year, celebrating the country, Ataturk, and other nationalistic holidays. This bayram was the Kurban Bayram, or Sacrifice Bayram. It is traditional to sacrifice a lamb to the Gods. Once the lamb has been slaughtered, a dish called "Beş Parmak" (meaning "five fingers"), is eaten. It is called Beş Parmak because it is carved and served with just the bare hands. 

While I didn't see any of the lambs get slaughtered, I did experience something equally as eerie; when we drove to Kurban Bayram dinner at my host-grandmother's house, there were hundreds and hundreds of sheep lined up on the sides of the highway, contained by pallets and tarps. When we returned home four hours later, all of the sheep were gone, and all that remained were hundreds of hoof-prints contained in a perfect square where the pallets had been. 

Despite the morbid theme, the holiday was in fact wonderful. I met my host-grandmother, uncles, aunts, cousins, and other various extended family members. Tuesday, the 15th of October, was the first day of the holiday. We had Beş Parmak and many vegetable side dishes. One of my particular favorites is a type of pastry called Börek. The pastry is made of many layers of thin dough, and is stuffed with potatoes, cheese, meat, vegetables, or any combination therein. My host-aunt's husband, Mike, is British, and their two children are bilingual. It was delightful to have a complete explanation of what was going on. 

All of the cousins on my host-father's side

Cousins with my host father

On Wednesday I ate lunch at a traditional Turkish restaurant that had wonderful seating options: 

These seats were flat on the floor, and full of pillows. Customers lounge on the pillows as they eat.

This woman was rolling out dough so thin that when she lifted it to place it on the stove, the light shone through it. She had a lovely smile, and sat on pillows in the same way that the customers did. 

After a delicious lunch, I went to the Arkeoloji Müzesi (archeology museum), and had a peek at some of the oldest pieces of Turkish, Ottoman, and Byzantine culture. 

This building has over 100,000 ceramic tiles on the front alone.

Side view of the museum with Byzantine caskets. 

Arkeoloji Müzesi

Some of the exquisite tiles.

Gold detail on the ceiling.

Another wonderfully symmetric ceiling.

On Friday my host mother, sister, brother, and I went to the Sakip Sabanci Müzesi where Anish Kapoor is being featured. Anish Kapoor is an Indian sculptor, most famous for Cloud Gate in Chicago. 

This mirror sculpture turned the whole world upside down. Just past the railing is the Bosphorus, and it's reflection in the mirror was wonderful.

With vacation, and no school, come plenty of free time to explore famous and beautiful neighborhoods. This Saturday I went to Karaköy with three other exchange students. Karaköy is across the Bosporus on the European side, and we took a ferry to get there. The neighborhood is home to the famous Galata Tower, an icon in Istanbul. We spent our time wandering the streets, looking for a place to eat, and eventually settling outside with a view of the water. The restaurant we ate at was a complete array of seemingly every traditional Turkish food, and some unusual twists. The men behind the counter guided me along as I chose my dishes, and made helpful suggestions. At the end they weigh your plate, and bring it to your table for you. Everything was delightful. 

Buffet where the big decisions are made.

Börek, grilled pepers, pilav, and beans, in the foreground.

On the other side of the restaurant specialty jams, spreads, breads, and other non-perishables were for sale. 

When we finished eating, we realized that a world-famous baklava shop, Karaköy Baklava was just down the street. We had to go, it was destiny.

The street was so crowded with cars that I couldn't step back far enough to take a picture of the whole sign. Everyone wanted the delicious baklava, and rightly so. 

Fıstık baklava, cevis baklava, and çikolata baklava.

Pistachio baklava, walnut baklava, and chocolate baklava.

I had never tasted chocolate baklava, and in the beginning I was a little wary, however, it was divine. 

I now fully understand why this particular baklava store is so famous. 

Sultanahmet

Last weekend I went on a tour of the ancient landmarks in the Sultanahmet district of European Istanbul. We visited the Topkapi Palace, the Ayasofya Museum, the Yerebatan Cistern, the Imperial Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), and the Spice Market. Each place was transformative, and when you touched the walls, it felt like the rich history was rubbing onto you.
We met at Söğütlüçeşme, on the Asian side, and then picked up the rest of the Rotary students in Europe. Our tour guide was bubbly, but also sassy enough to maintain a semblance of order in a group of twenty-four teenagers. She carried a yellow and pink plush, wire-stuffed flower high above her head so we could find her in the crowds. Once we collected the entire group, we drove to the gates of the Topkapi Palace, and entered the focal point of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19th centuries. 

The ceiling of the tower at the entrance of the palace.

Upper Terrace with fountain, İftar bower and Baghdad Kiosk

The Tower of Justice--built by Mehmed II, and renovated by Suleiman I

The Topkapi Palace is home to some of the worlds most amazing garments and jewel-adorned boxes. On a card next to a case containing a golden ceremonial goblet, it was stated that there were three hundred individual emeralds studding the outside of the cup. The Sultan's ran their empires well, and they reaped outrageous benefits, most of which are still available for public viewing. 

The Blue Mosque is famous for the blue tiles that adorn the walls of it's interior. Before entering, all women must cover their heads, arms, and knees. The mosque provides blue cotton fabric to the women entering, because many people are not dressed appropriately. It is also required that every person, regardless of gender, must remove their shoes prior to entering. Benches with faucets in front of them line the outside of the building so that the devout can wash their feet. Despite the foot washing, the mosque has a noticeable smell of dirty socks. 

Generally women are not allowed in mosques, especially during the times of prayer. However, the Blue Mosque has a section in the back that is separated by a perforated lattice wall, behind which the women can sit. The entire mosque is tiled with 20,000 hand-made ceramic tiles and more than 200 stained glass windows allow natural sunlight to stream in. Hundreds of verses of the Qur'an are carved and painted on the walls. Donated carpets cover the floor, and they are replaced regularly because they wear out quickly, due to the heavy traffic. 

Venice and me in the Blue Mosque

Blue Mosque ceiling and tiles

The Basilica Cistern is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. It was originally a basilica built between the 3rd and 4th centuries, but was destroyed during a fire in 476. It was reconstructed, and then renovated by Emperor Justinian after the Nika riots in 532. Over 7,000 slaves built the cistern as the water filtration system of the Great Palace of Constantinople and other places on the first hill. 

The entire cistern still exists today, though the water level is much lower than in functioning times. The underground chamber is entirely red-lit from under the surface of the water, giving the space an eerie garnet glow. Long fish swerve between the thick marble columns that stretch from the high, damp ceiling to the floor. Their shadows are twice their size, and they reflect off the water onto the marble pathways, creating the illusion of hundreds more fish than there actually are. 

The illuminated columns of the cistern.

Fish swimming in red light.

The Spice Market was a blur of scents, spices, Turkish delight, colors, pottery, loose tea, döner, cats, and enthusiastic vendors. We walked down and back through the center of the market, and we saw every kind of spice imaginable. It really was indescribable, so I'll post some photographs. 

Scarves

Spices and çay

Turkish delight

Çay (tea)

The day was a wonderful glimpse into the magnificent, historical city that is Istanbul. More to come about the Ayasofya. It really does deserve it's own post.